Use a baking dish that will hold the pork snugly. I used a 12-inch cast-iron oval dish that’s about 2 inches deep.

Pat the pork dry with a kitchen towel and set it in your dish. Mix the salt and sugar together and use your fingers to rub it all over the pork and into its nooks and crannies.

Cover the pork with plastic wrap and leave it in the refrigerator overnight. (Now, ‘overnight’, isn’t very time-specific, but I left mine in its salty, sugary rub for 16 hours.) You’ll find that the rub pulls a lot of juice from the pork as it sits in the refrigerator. That’s ok, you’ll just drain it off before you start roasting the pork.

To begin that roasting, start by turning your oven to 300F / 150C. While it’s heating, remove the pork from its dish, drain off the liquid and give the dish a quick clean. Return the pork to the cleaned dish. The pork will be pretty wet all over, and that’s fine. One thing not to do is to rinse the pork, just leave it as it is.

Set the pork on a middle shelf and let it roast, slow-and-low, at 300F / 150C for 4 ½ hours. Then remove the park from the oven and let it sit in its dish for 15 minutes to cool.

Turn the oven to 500F / 260C. While it’s heating, you’ll have time to glaze the pork, so it’s ready for a fast searing in that hot oven.

So, lift the coolish pork from its dish and set it aside on plate. There’ll be a fair amount of clear, fatty liquid in the dish, together with a dark, golden-brown, thickish sort of syrup. If you tilt the dish, these two will separate and you can spoon almost all the syrup into a small bowl. Good.

Now drain the clear, fatty liquid from the dish and discard it. You don’t need to be too fussy about this, and it’s grand to leave a little of the fat and syrup in the dish. Return the pork to the dish and spoon the reserved syrup over its top and sides.

Mix the salt and light brown sugar together, then spoon this over the top of the pork. Use your fingers to spread and pat the mix as evenly as you can over the pork’s top and sides – but not underneath.

Your pork’s now ready to go into that hot oven to caramelize the glaze. About 10 minutes or so will be enough to turn the glaze a maroon-golden color as it sets into a firm crust over the pork. Once that happens, your roasted bo ssam pork is done, and it’s ready to go onto a centerpiece platter or carving board.

Add all the ingredients to a serving bowl and give everything a good stir. Done, and ready to serve.

I’d keep this really relaxed and entertaining by setting the pork center-table and arranging the side dishes all around it. That’s the rice, scallion and ginger relish, the store-bought kimchi, and the hot chili sauce (gochujang chili paste, your favorite hot sauce, or your own concoction.) Folks can then slice and pull some pork, load it on their plates with a helping of the sides, and set about creating a succession of ssam-style wraps.