Heat 3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil in a big skillet set on a medium-high heat. I used a heavy-based, 12-inch skillet that was big enough to hold all the chicken thighs in a single layer.
Let the oil heat until its surface starts to shimmer, then add the chicken thighs skin side up. Take a little care so as not to heat the oil so much that it begins smoking. That’s just way too much heat for toasted sesame oil and for the chicken.
Drop the heat to low-medium, and let the thighs sizzle away, skin side up, for 4 minutes.
You want to get a pale golden color on the underside of the thighs. Once that happens, carefully turn the thighs over and let them fry skin side down for another 4 minutes on that low-medium heat. You want the skin to stay on the thighs, so don’t move them about in the skillet. Just let them sizzle gently and stay whole.
As the thighs fry, you’ll probably find the oil foams a lot. That’s perfect because it shows the oil is not too hot. You’ll also see that a fair amount of thighs’ fat has melted out into the sesame oil. That’s exactly what you want.
Once you’ve got that pale golden color on both sides of the thighs, remove them with a slotted spoon and set them aside on a big dinner plate. Try and leave as much of the fatted oil as you can in the skillet as that’s where the ginger, garlic, and chilies are heading now for some hot-and-fast frying.
Turn the skillet’s heat back to medium-high and let the oil come back up to that shimmer point. Now stir in the sliced ginger. You want to stir-fry the ginger on that medium-high heat for about 2 minutes, just until it picks up a little golden color. Now add the chilies and the garlic and keep stir frying the lot for another 2 minutes.Then remove your skillet from the heat. Good. That’s all the frying done. Time now for some broth-based poaching.
Set a big saucepan, easily big enough to hold all your soup’s ingredients except the noodles, on a high heat and add everything from your skillet (the ginger, garlic, chilies, and all the oil.)
Quick as you can, stir in the water, Shaoxing rice wine, palm sugar, chicken stock cube, and salt. Give the pan a few good stirs as it comes up to a boil. You want to stir enough so that the palm sugar and stock cube get dissolved into your broth.
As soon as the pan starts boiling, drop the heat to low. Now add the chicken thighs skin side up in a single layer, together with all the juices from their plate. Cover the pan and let it simmer gently for 35 minutes so that the thighs cook right through as they poach in the broth. Nearly done.
Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon and turn off the pan. Let the chicken cool enough so you can handle it. Once that happens, pull the skin off the thighs, chop it finely, and return it all to your broth. Now use your fingers to carefully pull all the meat off the thighs’ bones.
Try not to shred the meat, but rather pull it away in chunky pieces. Add all the meat the meat to your broth and turn the heat to high until the pan just starts bubbling. Right now, I like to check the broth for saltiness. Adjust according to your taste.
Give the pan a gentle stir, drop the heat to low, and cover the pan. It’s done. You just need to keep the soup on that low heat so that it stays nicely hot for serving while you sort out the noodles.