Heat the olive oil in a medium-sized saucepan over a low-medium heat. Add the onion and the salt, stir well, and drop the heat to low. Continue cooking for about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally so the onions gently soften but get nowhere near to browning. Stir in the garlic and cook for another 90 seconds.

Add the chopped cherry tomatoes and the diced chilis, turn the heat to medium, give everything a good stir and after two minutes – plus a couple more stirs - drop the heat to low again. Cook for about 12 minutes with a couple of encouraging stirs so the tomatoes give up most of their body.

Now add the ginger, cumin, paprika, fish sauce, and black pepper. Stir well to combine everything. Turn the heat to medium, bring the pan to a bare boil, and then immediately remove it from the heat.

Let the mix cool for a few minutes, then pour it into a food processor. Whizz it for a minute, then return it to the pan set on a low-medium heat. Add the demerara sugar and give the pan a thorough stir. As soon as the jelly starts to bubble, lower the heat and let it gently – and I mean gently - simmer for 35 minutes, stirring now and again to prevent any sticking to the bottom or sides of the pan.

Remove the pan from the heat and then stir in the lime juice. Set the pan aside with the lid ajar, and let it cool for 15 minutes. That’s it, chili jelly done.

While the jelly’s cooling, you can prep its jar. Thoroughly wash and rinse the jar and its lid in hot water. Dry the lid and shake most of the water from the jar before setting it in a microwave for 2 minutes on high. This will pretty much sterilise the jar. Take a bit of care now – that jar’s gonna be pretty hot when you remove it from the microwave.

Pour the chili jelly into the jar and lightly screw on the lid – don’t screw it fully closed – and let the jar cool for 30 minutes before you tighten the lid.

First the steaks. Pat them lightly dry with some kitchen towel. Use a sharp knife to cut half the steaks along their shorter side into strips a third of inch wide.

Cut each of the remaining steaks into two triangles. Now carefully score each triangle with a criss-cross, diamond pattern a quarter of an inch apart. You want to cut the pattern half-way into the thickness of each triangular piece. A little care and a sharp knife make this pretty easy.

For the tentacled heads, turn them out onto some paper towel and pat them lightly dry.

Put the steaks and the heads into a mixing bowl, pour in the milk and gently mix the lot together with your fingers.

Now for some dredging. On a good-sized dinner plate, mix the flour with the seasoning salt and pepper.

Tip the calamari into a sieve to drain off as much milk as you can. Now, piece by piece, dip the calamari – steaks and heads – into the flour so they get coated all over. Give them a bit of a shake to remove any excess flour and set the lightly coated calamari onto another good-sized dinner plate. Keep the pieces of steak on one side of the plate and the heads on the other. The steak pieces are going to get cooked first, then the heads.

Set a good-sized skillet (a twelve-inch is ideal) onto a high heat and add the coconut oil. The oil needs to be sufficiently hot so that when you add the first piece of calamari steak it really sizzles – really sizzles.

Now quickly add the rest of the steak pieces, evenly spaced in a single layer across the skillet. Don’t overcrowd the skillet – rather cook the steak pieces in two batches. They have to fry – not poach.

Let them fry for a minute then quickly turn them and fry for another minute. That’s just one, hotly sizzling minute each side. And that’s the way to get a crisp golden coat on each still-tender piece.

So, fast as you can after that second, hot minute, use a slotted spoon to remove the steaks and set them onto some kitchen towel.

Now for the heads. Keep the skillet on its sizzling high heat and quickly add the heads. Once again, don’t crowd the skillet - cook them in two batches if need be. Fry the heads for one minute, then quickly turn them for another sizzling minute. Done. Get them swiftly out of the skillet and onto the kitchen towel.

Serve immediately – equal parts of heads and steak pieces on each lucky diners’ plate, along with the rich chili jelly.